Tsabong Camel Adventure
Some thirty years in the past, a man brought a handful of camels from Saudi Arabia south to the vast Kalahari Desert of central Botswana. He did this to employ the beasts in anti-poaching police efforts. These camels multiplied to become what is now the Tsabong Camel Park where Botswana is developing a tourist game reserve of them. The Smiths and I became Tsabong's guinea pigs for their first-ever overnight camel-ride adventure, one which we will never forget.
Day 1 was spent traveling 6 hours to reach Tsabong along a road full of typical African hazards: pot-holes large enough to destroy tires and front ends, wandering goats and cattle, and galloping donkey carts. We arrived at the park in time to enjoy just another stunning Botswana sunset over the Kalahari and prepare for an early morning departure.
Miraculously, a thoroughly drenching rain storm blew through Tsabong that night cutting our electricity and water supply but providing us with desperately appreciated cloud cover and cooler temps for Day 2 when we embarked on our camel adventure.
Camels are as dumb as mud, and these guys were unruly and unpredictable and difficult to control. We sent two camels back to camp within the first hour due to their lack of cooperative spirit. Our crew of three tourists and four guides, however, successfully maneuvered the 9-hour journey to our overnight camp spot which had been set up ahead of time and which was very well apportioned considering the vast desert we traversed to get here.
Warm water and a delicious dinner of prime Botswana beef were prepared over a blazing fire, and the weary lot slept like the dead. Nine hours on a camel leaves a body more sore than one knew possible with no muscle group untouched. Thankfully we stopped multiple times along the way to stretch and tank down liters of water as the temperatures reached 100 degrees.
Along the way we visited the small remote village of Malesha as well as a national treasure trove of ancient stone tools known as the Seo Pan Stone Age Site. Here we were met by the local Kgosi or chief of the area who provided a tour of the site along with welcome drinks.
Our guides provided lovely accommodations for us at the overnight campground including spacious tents, comfortable cots on which to sleep, a desert privy, and even a hot shower.
Day 3 dawned bright and hot with no sign of residual cloud cover from the day before, and it was with dread that I anticipated another 9-hour return trip. Every muscle, bone, sinew, and tendon in my body ached, and climbing back into the saddle was neither fun nor easy, but we cut come corners and took less breaks and headed for home at the fastest rate slow plodding unmotivated camels can lumber, and we made it back within 6 hours. Sunburned, exhausted, dehydrated, and achy sore and overjoyed to be off the camels and into our cars headed for home, we all agreed that while we'd not ever do this again, we were happy we'd engaged in this adventure, were grateful no one died, and we now had memories enough to last a lifetime.
Unluckily, Jerry was bucked from his camel as he attempted to remount his dromedary at one point. Miscommunication between beast and rider resulted in a frightened 12-foot tall 1-ton animal throwing Jerry to the ground where he landed hard on his back and hip. But nothing was broken and within a few days Jerry could stand up straight and walk again and now has a harrowing tale with which to keep his great grandchildren enthralled.
Would we do it again? Never. Are we glad we embarked on and somehow completed this grueling adventure? You betcha! Sadly, Aaron sat this one out, staying behind to complete some critical time-sensitive work and also to protect what's left of his hip joint which needs replacement. When I recounted to him all the mishaps of the journey and how almost everything that could go wrong did, and as he watched my bruised and battered body limp off to bed, he shook his head at me, offered prayers of gratitude that we hadn't perished, and rubbed it in that his smarter head had chosen to remain comfortably at home.

Comments
Post a Comment